If you’re searching water filter vs softener, you’re probably seeing water problems that feel the same. Maybe your tap water tastes like a pool. Maybe your shower door gets white spots no matter how often you wipe it. Maybe your skin feels dry, your laundry looks dull, or your kettle gets crusty fast.
Here’s the key point: those symptoms overlap, but the fixes are different. A water filter is built to reduce contaminants that affect water taste, odor, and sometimes safety. A water softener is built to remove hard water minerals—mainly calcium and magnesium—so you stop scale, spotting, and soap problems.
This guide starts with the fastest way to decide, then explains how each system works, what each one removes, what they cost to own, and when a softener and a water filter together is the best answer.
Water Filter vs Softener: Key Difference (Fast Decision)
If you only remember one thing, remember this: filtration improves what’s in the water (contaminants). Softening changes the minerals that cause hardness (scale and spots).
Choose a water filter if your main problem is taste, odor, or contaminants
A water filter system is a better match when you’re thinking, “Is my water clean to drink?” or “Why does my water smell like chlorine?” Filters can target chlorine, chloramines, sediment, and—depending on the type—chemicals or metals like lead. Many homes on city water supplies start here because disinfection chemicals are common. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), public water systems routinely use disinfectants such as chlorine or chloramines to control microbial contamination throughout the distribution system.
A simple example: I once stayed in a rental where the water tasted fine cold, but when you filled a pot for pasta, the smell got stronger. That’s a classic sign of disinfectant odor—something a carbon filter can often reduce.
Problem → likely solution (mini decision table)
| Main problem you notice | Most likely fix | Notes |
| Bad taste / chlorine smell | Carbon filtration | Works best with enough contact time |
| “Chloramine” taste or odor | Carbon designed for chloramines | Not all carbon performs the same |
| Concern about lead / dissolved solids | Reverse osmosis (RO filter) | Often used at one sink for drinking water |
| Grit, sand, cloudy water | Sediment filter | Great as a first stage to protect other equipment |
Choose a water softener if your main problem is scale, spots, and soap not lathering
A water softener is the best fit when you’re seeing hard water damage: white scale on faucets, stiff towels, soap that won’t lather, and spots on dishes right after the dishwasher finishes. Those “evaporation spots” happen because hard minerals stay behind when water dries.
If you’ve ever washed a shower door, watched it look perfect, then seen spots appear again by the next day, you’ve felt the limits of regular filtration. Most filters do not remove the dissolved calcium and magnesium that cause that spotting.
Energy note (why scale matters): scale buildup in water heaters can reduce efficiency. Even thin mineral scale can force the heater to work harder, which can raise energy use. You may see claims like “about 23% savings” with softened water in some materials, but real savings vary by your heater type, hardness level, and how much scale you already have. The safe takeaway is simple: less scale usually means better heat transfer and less wasted energy.
If you have both problems, plan a combo system (often the “best” solution)
Many homes have “two-problem water”: it’s hard and it has chlorine or chloramine taste. In that case, choosing water filtration vs softener is a false choice. You often need both—just in the right order.
A very common whole-home plan looks like this:
Typical order (whole house + drinking water): sediment prefilter → carbon (optional but common on city water) → water softener → point-of-use reverse osmosis at the kitchen sink
Think of it like teamwork. The filter stages protect the softener and improve smell/taste for showers. The softener protects plumbing and appliances. Then an RO unit can give you very low-mineral water for cooking and drinking.
Whole-home plumbing flow (simple schematic)
Street or well → shutoff valve → (sediment) → (carbon) → softener → house cold lines → (kitchen sink RO as a branch) → water heater → hot lines
Quick symptom checker (a “quiz” you can do in 60 seconds)
If you want a quick answer without overthinking, ask yourself:
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Do you get white spots on glass and shower doors after water dries?
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Does soap feel like it won’t rinse clean, or does shampoo barely foam?
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Do you see crusty buildup on faucets, showerheads, or in a kettle?
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Does your water smell like chlorine, or taste “chemical”?
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Are you worried about a specific contaminant (like lead), based on your home age or water report?
If you mostly answered “spots/scale/soap,” you’re leaning softener. If you mostly answered “taste/odor/contaminants,” you’re leaning filter system. If you answered both, you’re a strong match for dual water softening and filtration.
How water filters work (and what they remove)
When people say “water filter,” they might mean a lot of different technologies. That’s why shopping gets confusing. To put it simply, filters either trap particles, adsorb chemicals, block dissolved contaminants through a membrane, or inactivate germs with light.
Carbon filtration basics (taste/odor, chlorine/chloramines)
Activated carbon is the workhorse of home filtration systems. It improves taste and odor because it can adsorb many chemicals that create smell and flavor issues—especially chlorine. It can also reduce some organic compounds, depending on the carbon type and how long water stays in contact with it.
Chloramines are trickier. Many cities use chloramines because they last longer in pipes. Carbon can reduce chloramines, but performance depends on carbon type, bed depth, and flow rate. That’s why some “whole house water filter” setups work great for taste, while others barely change it—contact time matters.
A good mental picture is a sponge with millions of tiny pores. Water flows through, and many odor-causing compounds stick inside those pores. But if water rushes through too fast, you get less benefit.
Reverse osmosis (RO): high reduction for many dissolved contaminants
A reverse osmosis or RO filter pushes water through a very fine membrane. This can reduce many dissolved contaminants, which is why RO is popular for drinking water. RO is often certified for specific reductions, and many systems can reduce a wide range of substances when properly installed and maintained.
RO is usually installed point-of-use (like under sink filter) because it makes water more slowly than a whole-house line needs. It also creates a waste stream (water that carries away the concentrated contaminants). Some people dislike that waste, but others accept it because they only use RO water for cooking and drinking, not showers and laundry.
Many families also prefer RO water with remineralization, which adds small amounts of minerals back for taste. If you’ve ever tried very low-mineral water and thought it tasted “flat,” that’s what people mean.
UV and specialty media (microbes, metals, specific chemicals)
UV (ultraviolet) treatment uses light to inactivate microorganisms. It does not remove chemicals or hardness, and it usually needs clear water to work well. UV is more common for well water or for homes that want an added barrier after other treatment.
Specialty media exists for specific issues like iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell), or arsenic. These are not “one size fits all.” If you’re on a well, it’s common to stage treatment so each part solves one job, instead of hoping one filter fixes everything.
A critical limit: filtration does not solve hard-water spotting
This is where many homeowners get stuck. They install a whole house filter and love the taste—yet the shower door still looks spotted and the dishwasher still leaves marks.
That’s because most filters don’t remove the dissolved hardness minerals. They might reduce sediment that can start scale inside pipes, but they usually do not eliminate evaporation spots. If your goal is spot-free glass and less scale, that’s the softener’s job.
How water softeners work (and what they don’t)
People often ask, does a water softener filter water? In the everyday sense, it can feel like it does, because your water behaves differently. But a softener is not a contaminant filter. It’s a hardness-mineral remover.
Ion exchange explained (why it actually “softens” water)
A standard water softener uses a process called ion exchange. Inside the tank is resin made of tiny beads. Those beads hold onto sodium (or sometimes potassium). When hard water passes through, the resin grabs onto the calcium and magnesium and releases sodium (or potassium) into the water.
That swap is what “softens” water. The minerals that cause scale are taken out, so they can’t form the same crust in heaters and fixtures.
After the resin fills up with hardness minerals, the softener cleans itself by flushing a salt solution (brine) through the resin. That’s why salt refills matter, and why the system needs a drain.
Real benefits in daily life (scale, soap, appliances)
When a home has truly hard water, softening can feel like a big change. Soap lathers more easily, and you often use less detergent. Towels can feel less scratchy. Fixtures stay cleaner, and scale buildup slows down in water heaters and pipes.
If you’ve ever had a kettle that builds chalky deposits in a week, that’s a good “before and after” test. With softened water, that crust usually drops a lot.
Softening can also help protect appliances that heat water. Scale acts like an insulating layer. Less scale usually means the heater transfers heat more easily, so it doesn’t need to work as hard. The exact savings vary, but the direction is clear: hard water scale wastes energy.
Tradeoffs: sodium, “slippery” feel, and brine discharge
A fair comparison of water filtration vs softener has to include the downsides.
Softened water can feel “slippery” to some people. That’s not soap residue; it’s the feeling of water without hardness minerals grabbing onto soap. Some people love it. Some people hate it and say they feel like they can’t rinse off.
There’s also salt handling. You’ll be carrying salt bags (or using another salt delivery method). You’ll also send brine to a drain during regeneration, which matters in areas with discharge limits. Some communities restrict or regulate softeners because of salt in wastewater.
If you’re watching sodium intake for health reasons, it’s smart to talk with a clinician. Many people soften only hot water, or they keep one unsoftened cold line for drinking and cooking. Others use RO at the sink because RO can reduce sodium along with many other dissolved solids.
Does a water softener remove chlorine or chloramines?
No. A typical water softener does not remove chlorine or chloramines. It also doesn’t remove many other contaminants that people worry about in drinking water. That’s why it’s common to pair a softener with a whole house water filtration system (often carbon) for taste and odor, and sometimes an RO unit for drinking.
So if you’re asking water softener vs water filter, the answer is not “which is stronger.” It’s “which problem are you solving?”
Testing & interpreting your water (so you buy the right system)
Buying the wrong system is easy because the same symptom can come from different causes. The fastest way to get clarity is to test your water and match the result to the right water treatment approach.
Hardness levels and thresholds (gpg/ppm) + what to do at each range
Hardness is measured in grains per gallon (gpg) or parts per million (ppm as calcium carbonate). If you’ve never seen those numbers, don’t worry—here’s the simple version: higher number means more scale risk.
Hardness guide (with likely symptoms and equipment)
| Hardness level | gpg | ppm (approx.) | What you may notice | Likely best fix |
| Soft | 0–3 | 0–50 | Little to no spotting | Usually none |
| Slightly hard | 3–7 | 50–120 | Mild spots, some scale | Optional softening |
| Hard | 7–10 | 120–180 | Clear scale, soap issues | Water softener helps a lot |
| Very hard | 10+ | 180+ | Fast scale, heavy spotting | Water softener strongly recommended |
If your hardness is “hard” or “very hard,” a filter alone usually won’t satisfy you if your goal is fewer spots and less scale. That’s the difference between a water softening system and a water filtration system in real life.
City water vs well water: what to check first
If you’re on city water, start with your utility’s water quality report. It can tell you whether the city uses chlorine or chloramines, and it may list metals and other regulated substances. City supplies can also change seasonally or by blending sources, so you might notice taste changes throughout the year.
If you’re on a well, the first checks are usually different. Sediment, iron, sulfur smell, and bacteria are common well issues. Wells often need staged treatment, like a sediment filter first, then iron treatment if needed, then softening for hardness, and then optional RO for drinking.
A neighbor of mine on well water once told me, “I bought a filter because the water smelled bad, but it clogged in weeks.” The real problem wasn’t just taste—it was sediment and iron loading the filter too fast. After testing, the fix became clear: handle sediment and iron first, then refine taste.
DIY test kits vs lab testing (when each is worth it)
A quick DIY strip can tell you if your water is hard and give you a rough range. That’s often enough to decide if you should address hard water with a softener.
Lab testing is worth it when you have health-based concerns or you’re on a private well. It’s also worth it if you suspect specific contaminants like nitrates, arsenic, or PFAS, because strips won’t give a reliable answer for those.
A practical approach that works for many homes is: use a DIY hardness test first, then use a certified lab if something seems off or if you’re building a full treatment plan.
Certification standards that matter (buying with proof)
When you compare systems, certifications help you separate real performance from vague claims.
For filters, you’ll often see standards like NSF/ANSI 42 (taste/odor and chlorine), NSF/ANSI 53 (health-related contaminants like lead, depending on the claim), NSF/ANSI 58 (reverse osmosis systems), and NSF/ANSI 401 (some emerging contaminants, depending on the claim).
For softeners, look for standards tied to performance and materials safety. The point is not the logo itself. The point is that the water system was tested to a defined method for the claims being made.
Cost, maintenance, and ownership (what you’ll live with)
A system that works on paper can still feel like a bad choice if upkeep doesn’t fit your life. This section is about the “living with it” side of water filters and water softeners.
Upfront cost ranges by system type
Prices vary by home size, plumbing access, flow rate needs, and whether you do professional installation. Still, ranges help you plan.
Typical cost ranges (equipment + installation)
| System type | Typical use | Cost range (USD) | What drives price |
| Basic sediment or carbon (point-of-use) | One sink | 50–300 | Cartridge type, housing quality |
| Under-sink RO | Drinking/cooking | 200–800 | Certification, tank size, add-ons |
| Whole house water filter (sediment/carbon) | All taps | 600–2,500 | Flow rate, media volume, plumbing work |
| Salt-based water softener | Whole home | 800–3,500 | Grain capacity, control valve, install complexity |
| Salt-free water conditioner | Whole home | 700–2,500 | Media type, sizing, install complexity |
These are broad ranges, but they show something important: a whole-home solution is less about the cheapest unit and more about correct sizing and good installation.
Ongoing maintenance: filters vs salt regeneration
Filters usually need cartridge or media changes. Many homes replace cartridges every 6–12 months, but that depends on water quality and how much water you use.
Softeners need salt refills and occasional checks. Regeneration frequency depends on hardness and household use. If your water is very hard, you’ll refill salt more often. If your usage is low, the softener may regenerate less.
A simple way to think about it is this: filters cost you time in scheduled changes, while softeners cost you time in salt handling and keeping an eye on settings.
Annual “keep it running” calendar (simple)
| Time frame | Filter focus | Softener focus |
| Weekly | Check flow changes or odors | Check salt level if you’re new to the system |
| Monthly | Inspect housings for leaks | Break up salt bridges, check settings |
| Every 6–12 months | Replace cartridges (typical) | Clean brine tank if needed, inspect drain line |
| Every 1–3 years | Replace specialty media if required | Consider resin cleaning if performance drops |
ROI: energy savings, detergent savings, appliance lifespan (how to estimate)
If your home has hard water, your biggest payback is often less visible: fewer repairs, longer appliance life, and less scale cleanup.
Here’s a simple “back of the napkin” way to estimate:
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If hardness is high and you heat a lot of water, you may save money by reducing scale-related efficiency loss.
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If you buy dishwasher cleaner, descaling products, and extra detergent, soft water can reduce that spending.
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If you’ve replaced showerheads, faucet cartridges, or a water heater early because of scale, that’s a real cost that softening can help prevent.
If you want a quick calculator idea, use these inputs: hardness (gpg), people in home, water heater type (tank or tankless), and how often you descale. Your output can be a rough annual estimate of detergent and descaling costs, plus a “risk score” for scale damage. Even if the number isn’t perfect, it makes the decision less emotional.
Environmental considerations and local regulations
Softeners regenerate and send brine to a drain. That is the main environmental concern, and it’s why some places regulate or limit softeners. If you’re on septic, you may also want to confirm local guidance and make sure the system is set correctly.
Salt-free conditioners don’t send brine to the drain, but they also don’t truly remove hard water minerals. They can reduce how strongly scale sticks, which helps some homes, but they don’t deliver the same spot-free results as true softening.
Best setups (single system vs combo) by scenario
Choosing a setup is easier when you match it to your water supply and your main goals.
Best for hard water with chloramines (a common two-problem case)
If your water is hard and you also notice disinfectant taste or odor, a staged approach tends to work best. A whole-home carbon stage can improve showers and laundry smell, and the softener handles spots and scale. Then the kitchen RO gives you great water for drinking and cooking.
In most homes, the recommended order is: sediment first (if needed) → carbon → softener → optional RO at the sink. That order helps protect the softener resin from clogging and keeps the house water smelling better.
Best for well water with sediment/iron + hardness
Well water treatment is often about solving problems in the right sequence. If you soften water that has a lot of iron without the right pre-treatment, you can foul the resin faster. If you install a UV light before removing sediment, the UV may not work as well.
A common staged plan is: sediment handling → iron/sulfur treatment if needed → water softener → optional RO for drinking.
If you’re on a well, testing is not optional. It’s the difference between a system that runs for years and one that fails early.
Salt-based softener vs salt-free conditioner (what changes, what doesn’t)
Salt-based softeners remove hardness minerals through ion exchange. Salt-free conditioners do not remove hardness; they try to change how minerals behave so scale is less sticky.
Do salt-free water conditioners work as well as softeners?
They can help with scale buildup in some situations, but they usually don’t deliver the same results for spotting, soap lather, and “true” softness. If your main complaint is heavy spots on glass and shower doors, a conditioner may not meet your expectations.
Point-of-use vs whole-house filtration system (matching intent to equipment)
A whole house water filter is about the experience of water everywhere—showers, laundry, and fixtures. An under-sink RO is about making a smaller volume of very clean drinking water.
Should I install a whole house filter or under-sink RO?
If your main goal is better-tasting water at one tap, choose RO or a carbon filter at that tap. If your goal is better showers and less chlorine smell in the whole home, choose whole-house filtration. Many people do both because they solve different goals without wasting money treating every gallon to drinking-water standards.
Real-world results & what homeowners often report
People don’t experience water problems as “ppm” and “gpg.” They experience dishes, showers, coffee, and repairs. These examples show how the difference between water softener and water filtration system plays out.
Case: whole-house filter improved taste but not spots (city water)
A common story is that a whole house water filter system improves taste and smell, and even reduces some sediment issues, but spots stay. Homeowners often say, “The water feels nicer, but my shower glass still looks dirty.”
That result makes sense. If hardness is still there, evaporation spots still form. The lesson is not that filtration failed. It’s that the home needed water softening to match the goal.
Case: softener improved bathing and laundry, but maintenance felt annoying
Another common story is that the softener helps with scale and soap use, but the homeowner dislikes the slippery feel or doesn’t like carrying salt. Sometimes they also notice that drinking water taste didn’t improve much, because softeners don’t remove disinfectants.
In that situation, the best fix is often not removing the softener. It’s pairing it with carbon for taste and odor, and using RO at the kitchen sink if you want a cleaner drinking profile.
Coffee and cooking: why filters and softeners don’t hit “perfect minerals” alone
If you care about coffee, tea, or baking, minerals matter. Hardness and alkalinity can change flavor and how equipment scales up.
Is softened water safe (or good) for drinking and coffee?
Softened water is generally fine for many people, but taste and preference vary, and sodium content can matter for some diets. For coffee, softened water can reduce scale risk, but it may not give ideal flavor. Many coffee-focused households use RO plus controlled remineralization to hit a specific mineral target. That’s more precise than either a filter or a softener alone.
10-minute action checklist (buying without guessing)
Use this short step-by-step plan to choose the right system the first time.
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Pull your latest water report if you have city water, or schedule a basic lab test if you have well water.
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Measure water hardness using a simple strip test or a drop-count kit. Record gpg or ppm.
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Identify the disinfectant type if you’re on city water: chlorine vs chloramine (your report often says).
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Write down your top two goals: spot reduction, taste/odor, drinking safety concerns, appliance protection, or something else.
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Match equipment to goals: hardness goals → softener; taste/odor/contaminants → filter; both goals → combo.
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Size the system for your home: number of bathrooms, expected flow rate, and hardness level.
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Check for relevant NSF/ANSI certifications that match your target (taste/odor, lead, RO performance).
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Plan install order for combo setups: sediment/carbon before softener, and point-of-use RO at the sink if desired.
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Confirm you have a drain and power where needed (softener and UV often need both).
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Set a simple maintenance reminder schedule so performance doesn’t slowly fade.
FAQs
1. What is better, water filtration or water softener?
When people ask about water filter vs water softener, the truth is there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer—it really comes down to the type of water in your home and the problems you notice. If your main issues are taste, odor, or visible contaminants like sediment, a water filtration system is usually the right choice because it removes those particles and chemicals that can affect drinking water. On the other hand, if you notice hard water symptoms such as spots on glassware, scale buildup on faucets, or soap that just won’t lather, it’s time to use a water softener. Many homeowners actually need both: a water softener and a water filter staged in the right order. That way, the filter takes out contaminants first, and the softener protects plumbing and appliances. Knowing when to install a water filtration system or a softener at specific points in your plumbing can make a big difference in performance and water quality.
2. Do I need a water filter if I have a water softener?
In most cases, the answer is yes, especially if you’re on city water. When people think about water filter vs softener, it’s easy to assume that a softener solves everything—but that’s not true. A softener mainly tackles hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium, which prevent scale and make soap lather better, but it doesn’t remove chlorine, chloramines, or other contaminants that can affect taste and safety. If you want your home’s water to taste fresher and be safer for drinking, pairing your softener with water filters is usually the best approach. Properly installed filters, like carbon or RO systems, help reduce chemicals and metals, so your water is safer for drinking and improves the overall quality of your water. Combining a filter and a water softener provides both appliance protection and cleaner, better-tasting water. That’s why many homeowners see the greatest benefits of using a water filtration system alongside their softener.
3. What is the disadvantage of water softeners?
When comparing water filter vs softener, it’s easy to focus only on the benefits of softened water, but there are some downsides to consider. Water softeners remove hard water minerals like calcium and magnesium, which helps prevent scale and protects appliances, but this comes with trade-offs. Some people notice that softened water feels unusually slippery, which can be surprising at first. Softening also adds sodium—or sometimes potassium—to your water, so if you’re monitoring dietary intake, this matters. Additionally, softeners produce brine discharge during regeneration, which is regulated in certain areas. Setting up a softener properly is important; an improperly installed or poorly maintained system can reduce performance. That’s why a water softener may not always be the perfect solution for everyone. For some households, especially where taste or contaminant removal is a priority, a water filter is a better addition or complement. Knowing how to install a water softener correctly can help minimize these drawbacks while maximizing benefits.
4. Can you filter softened water for drinking?
Yes, and it’s actually a common practice in many homes. When thinking about water filter vs softener, it’s important to remember they handle different issues. A whole-house softener takes care of hard water issues by removing calcium and magnesium, protecting your pipes and appliances from scale buildup. But softened water can still contain dissolved solids or extra sodium, which is why adding a water filter and a water treatment system makes sense. Many people install an under-sink RO or carbon filter so the water they drink and cook with tastes better and is safer. This way, water can also have lower sodium levels and fewer contaminants that a softener alone won’t remove. Deciding whether you need a water filtration system after a softener really comes down to taste, health concerns, and the quality of drinking water you want—but using both gives you the best of both worlds: soft water for your home and clean, great-tasting water for drinking.
5. Is filtered water the same as softened water?
Not at all. Many people confuse the two, but the difference is important when comparing water filter vs softener. Water filters remove contaminants, particles, and chemicals, which helps improve water quality and makes it safer and more pleasant to drink. On the other hand, a water softener specifically targets hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium through ion exchange. Understanding the difference between a water softener and a filter is key: softened water prevents scale buildup on faucets and appliances, but it may still taste like chlorine or contain other dissolved substances. Using a softener alone doesn’t address most water quality issues, and filtered water alone won’t protect your plumbing from scale. Many households combine both, installing a softener for hardness and a point-of-use filter or RO system to use a water filter for drinking and cooking, so you get the best of both worlds: soft water for home use and clean, great-tasting water at the tap.
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