According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), understanding proper installation techniques is crucial when learning how to install an under sink water filter. This guidance focuses on real-world outcomes, helping you decide whether an under-sink water filter will function effectively in your kitchen or become a plumbing headache.
Should You Install an Under-Sink Water Filter in Your Home or Avoid It Based on Your Setup?
Under-sink filters are excellent when conditions are right and frustrating when they’re not. This section helps you make a clear go / no-go decision for those wondering how to install an under sink water filter, considering cabinet space, plumbing condition, and faucet constraints.
Execution Snapshot: When an Under-Sink Water Filter Works and When It Fails
You should consider how to install an under sink water filter if you have enough cabinet space to mount the system and still remove cartridges later, a normal, working cold water shutoff valve you can disconnect without it crumbling or leaking, and a realistic plan for the faucet—either an existing spare hole or a sink/countertop you’re allowed and able to drill. Proper planning prevents most common installation failures.
You should not choose this setup if any of these are true: you’re in a rental that bans drilling or “permanent” changes, your shutoff valve is corroded/unknown and you can’t confidently seal a T-adapter without leaks, or your cabinet is so tight that cartridge changes would require you to uninstall and remount the unit each time. In real kitchens, most regrets come from “I didn’t measure clearance” and “my shutoff valve turned into a plumbing job.”
This is a great solution for better taste and odor when the install conditions are right. It becomes a slow leak and frustration machine when they aren’t.
Only Works With Enough Cabinet Clearance for those learning how to install an under sink water filter and perform cartridge replacement
Many people only check if the filter fits under the sink. The real test is whether you can service it later.
Under-sink water filters usually hang on the cabinet wall. That’s fine—until the first filter change. A lot of housings and cartridges need to move straight down (or straight out) to come free. If the cabinet floor, trash pull-out, or drain plumbing blocks that movement, you end up doing the “no-remount reality” dance: unhook tubing, unscrew the bracket, slide the unit out, change the cartridge, then remount and recheck for leaks. People don’t do that on schedule, and performance drops.
What to do before you buy: open the cabinet and find a flat wall area you can reach with one hand while holding the cartridge with the other. If you’re trying to figure out how to install an under sink water filter and the only open space is behind the trash can or jammed against the P-trap, expect frustration.
Takeaway: If you’re unsure how to install an under sink water filter without moving the whole unit, an under-sink system is a bad daily-fit choice.
Avoid Installation If Your Rental Bans Drilling or Permanent Cabinet and Faucet Modifications
A common under-sink water filtration system includes a separate filtered water faucet. That often means drilling a hole in the sink deck or countertop, plus screwing a bracket into the cabinet wall.
If your lease forbids drilling, treat this as a no-go unless you can use an existing hole and mount without damage (or you have written permission). Some kitchens have a spare hole from an old soap dispenser or sprayer—this is the cleanest way to make it “renter-safe.”
Also consider move-out reality: even if you can install it, can you remove it and leave the cabinet and faucet area looking normal? A patched countertop hole is not “normal.”
Takeaway: In rentals, under-sink installs only make sense when you can use an existing hole and do minimal, reversible mounting.
Avoid Installation If the Cold Water Shutoff Valve Is Corroded or Cannot Seal an Adapter Reliably
Most installs start by disconnecting the cold water supply line from the shutoff valve and adding a T-adapter (or a dedicated adapter valve). That’s easy when the valve is modern and healthy.
It’s a mess when the valve is old, stuck, partially corroded, or nonstandard. Where installs usually go wrong is you loosen the supply line and the valve starts dripping from the stem, or the threads feel gritty and don’t seal well with PTFE tape. Cross-threading is another common failure: the adapter bites crooked, “feels tight,” and then drips under pressure.
If your shutoff valve looks crusty, green, or wet already, assume you may be upgrading a valve, not “just adding a filter.”
Takeaway: If you can’t shut off cold water cleanly and reconnect without seepage, plan on a plumber—or pick a non-plumbed option instead.
Execution Trade-Offs That Decide Real-World Installation Success or Failure
Before getting into details, this snapshot summarizes the few conditions that determine success—and the common reasons installations fail in real kitchens.
Why “Easy Install” Fails When Faucet Drilling or Re-Plumbing Is Required
Online, “easy install water filter” usually means: shut off water, add adapter, run tubing, mount filter, mount faucet, flush.
In your kitchen, “easy” depends on two things that aren’t in the box:
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Do you already have a hole for a filtered water faucet (or can you use an existing opening)?
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Does your plumbing match the fittings included (thread type, tube size, shutoff style)?
If you have to drill, you’re no longer in “easy install” territory. If your shutoff valve isn’t a standard compression/angle stop setup, you’re also not in “easy install” territory. And if you have a pull-out trash bin or drawer system under the sink, mounting space gets tricky fast.
The execution trade-off is simple: the filter can give you nicer-tasting sink water, but the install can turn into a half-day project when you expected 45 minutes.
Takeaway: Call it “easy” only when you already have a faucet hole and a standard cold water supply line connection.
Push-Fit Tubing Failures Caused by Improper Cuts and Incomplete Insertion
Push-fit tubing is great when done right and annoying when done “almost right.”
A push-fit connection seals because the tubing end is perfectly round, cut square, and inserted to the correct depth. If you cut the tubing at an angle, crush it with dull cutters, or don’t push it fully home, it may hold during the first test—and then drip later after vibration and pressure cycles.
Common real-cabinet mistakes:
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Tubing is too short, so it tugs on the fitting when you open the cabinet.
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Tubing is kinked in a tight bend, stressing the connection.
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You forget to use a locking clip (if your system includes them).
Fixing it usually means removing the tubing, cutting a fresh square end, and reinserting fully. You can’t “tighten” a push-fit leak like a threaded leak.
Takeaway: If you don’t have the patience to cut tubing carefully and redo a connection once or twice, DIY filter installation is where leaks begin.
Only Works With a Full Leak-Check Cycle After Installation and Initial Flush
A lot of under sink plumbing guide steps stop at “turn water on and check for leaks.” That’s not enough.
Slow leaks often show up after:
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the first 5–10 minutes flush (as air clears and pressure stabilizes)
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an hour or two of sitting under pressure
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an overnight cycle (temperature change + tubing relaxes)
A smart leak-check cycle looks like this:
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Pressurize slowly and inspect every connection with a dry paper towel.
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Flush as instructed (often 5–10 minutes).
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Recheck after 1–2 hours.
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Put a dry towel under the system overnight and check in the morning.
This feels tedious, but it’s what prevents “mystery cabinet swelling” later.
Takeaway: If you can’t commit to checking it multiple times after install, you’re taking on hidden risk.
Not Suitable for Kitchens With Low Flow Sensitivity or Excessively High Water Pressure
Not Suitable for Kitchens Where learning how to install an under sink water filter may be hampered by low flow or excessively high water pressure.
Under-sink filters reduce water flow. How much depends on the filter design, cartridge condition, and your home’s water pressure. For those needing advanced filtration or multi-stage setups, a reverse osmosis filter system offers higher contaminant removal, though installation may require additional clearance and attention to flow rates. Two failure modes show up in real use:
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Low pressure homes: the filtered water faucet becomes annoyingly slow, especially after the cartridge loads up. If you already hate weak flow at the kitchen tap, this may push it into daily frustration.
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High pressure homes: fittings and housings are under more stress. A small install error shows up faster as drips or weeping at connections.
If you don’t know your pressure, you can still “fit test” by noticing clues: does your kitchen faucet blast compared to friends’ houses? Or is it already weak? If it’s already weak, be cautious with any system that has fine filtration stages.
Takeaway: Under-sink filtration only feels good to use when your pressure and flow have enough margin to spare.
Do Your Budget, Time, and Effort Match the Reality of Installation
The filter kit isn’t the full cost. This section helps you assess whether your budget and patience match what installation actually requires.
Only Works When You Budget for Essential Installation Tools and Fittings
The filter kit is rarely the whole story. Small items decide whether the install stays clean or becomes a hardware store loop.
Common “extras” that matter:
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PTFE tape for threaded connections (when required by your fittings)
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a simple tubing cutter so cuts are square (this prevents push-fit leaks)
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an adjustable wrench (sometimes two)
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drill bits / hole saw if you’re mounting a bracket or adding a faucet hole
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a shallow pan and towels (water will come out of the line)
If you have stone countertops and need a new faucet hole, that’s not a “small extra.” That’s a different job.
Takeaway: Budget a little money and a little time for the boring items—the install depends on them.
Installation Fails When You Force Mismatched Valves or Supply Line Fittings
The most common DIY stall: you disconnect the cold water supply line and realize the adapter doesn’t match your valve or supply line.
Forcing mismatched threads is how you get cross-threading and leaks. In practice, you sometimes need to pause, identify what you have, and get the correct adapter (or a different supply line). This is where “I’ll make it work” causes damage.
If you’re the type who wants a one-trip, one-hour install no matter what, an under-sink system may not match your tolerance.
Takeaway: If you won’t pause to match fittings correctly, you’ll likely end up with seepage or stripped threads.
Not Worth It If You Cannot Commit Time to Fit Testing, Mounting, and Leak Checks
A clean under-sink installation is partly plumbing and partly carpentry: measuring, positioning, pilot holes, routing tubing so it doesn’t kink, then leak checking more than once.
A realistic time range:
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Best case (existing hole, standard valve, open cabinet): 60–120 minutes.
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Realistic case (tight cabinet, tricky mounting, one extra hardware run): 2–4 hours.
If you won’t do the fit-testing and leak checks, the “cost” shows up later as cabinet damage or frequent rework.
Takeaway: If you need this to be fast and final, pay for installation or choose a non-plumbed solution.
Will Your Kitchen Physically Support an Under-Sink Water Filter Without Daily Frustration
Some kitchens simply aren’t designed for under-sink systems. This section helps you judge physical compatibility before committing.
Minimum Cabinet Clearance Requirements That Decide Go or No-Go Installation
Small sink bases fail installs more often than water quality does.
Two measurements matter more than anything:
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Cabinet depth: If you have less than about 15–18 inches of usable depth, the filter body and tubing bends get cramped, especially if you also have a trash pull-out.
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Service height: You want about 12–15 inches of vertical “service space” where the cartridge can move during replacement. This is not the full cabinet height; it’s the clear zone where the housing sits.
Also check for interference:
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Drain trap and disposal take up the center; filters often need a side wall.
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Pull-out drawers and bins reduce usable wall space and block access.
If you can only mount the unit on the cabinet floor, check whether water spills during cartridge changes will be easy to catch. Wall mounting is usually cleaner and more stable.
Takeaway: Measure for service space, not just “does it fit today.”
Only Works When the Mounting Bracket Is Secured to a Solid, Reachable Cabinet Wall
Filters are heavier than people expect once full of water. If the bracket is mounted to thin paneling, a weak back wall, or a spot you can’t reach with a drill, it becomes unstable.
A good mounting spot is:
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a solid side wall (not a flimsy back panel)
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reachable without removing half the cabinet contents
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positioned so tubing can route without tight bends
Pilot holes matter. Without them, screws can split cabinet material or wander. If the bracket shifts, tubing gets tugged, and fittings start to weep.
Takeaway: If you can’t mount the bracket firmly and reach it later, don’t force an under-sink system into that cabinet.
Cold Water Supply Line Failures Caused by Incompatible Shutoff Valves and Adapters
Most install plumb the filter off the cold water supply line. Mechanically, that means adding a connection at the shutoff valve or between the valve and faucet line.
It works when:
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You can fully shut off cold water
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The supply line disconnects cleanly
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the adapter matches the thread type/size
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You can tighten without twisting the valve body in the wall
It fails when:
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the shutoff valve is stiff and you have to force it (risking stem leaks)
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The valve spins when you try to loosen the nut (risking pipe damage)
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the adapter starts crooked and cross-threads
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there’s no slack in the supply line, so everything is under tension
Bold warning: If the shutoff valve body moves when you apply wrench force, stop. That’s where a “simple filter install” becomes a pipe repair.
Takeaway: The valve and supply line must be standard, stable, and sealable—or you should plan for professional help.
Granite and Quartz Faucet Drilling as the Primary DIY Deal-Breaker
A dedicated filtered water faucet is common because it keeps filtered water separate from the main kitchen tap. But it requires a hole.
Scenarios:
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Stainless steel sink deck: drilling is usually manageable with the right bit and patience.
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Existing spare hole: easiest and cleanest path (soap dispenser hole is common).
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Granite/quartz countertop: drilling is the deal-breaker for many DIY installs. It typically needs diamond tooling, careful technique, and a plan to prevent cracking/chipping.
If you’re not comfortable drilling stone—or you’re in an apartment—choose a system that can use an existing opening, or plan on hiring out that part. For many homeowners, the faucet hole is the single step that decides “DIY vs not.”
Takeaway: If you don’t already have a usable hole and you have stone counters, don’t assume DIY will stay simple.
Maintenance Burden and Long-Term Failure Risks After Installation
Installation success doesn’t end on day one. This section looks at how maintenance access determines long-term satisfaction.
Cartridge Replacement Failures Caused by Blocked Vertical Service Space
This is the maintenance version of the clearance problem: you might squeeze the unit into place, then discover you can’t actually change it.
Typical interference points:
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cabinet floor (not enough drop distance)
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disposal body or drain trap (blocks straight movement)
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a shelf or drawer rail (blocks access)
People usually regret this choice when filter changes require removing the unit or disassembling plumbing. They put off replacements, water taste gets worse, flow drops, and then they blame the filter rather than the install.
A good test: pretend you are holding a wet cartridge and need to pull it out without twisting your wrist around a drain pipe. If that feels impossible now, it won’t improve later.
Takeaway: If cartridge access isn’t simple, maintenance will be skipped—and performance will suffer.
Why Slow Leaks Appear Hours After Installation and How to Catch Them
A leak that sprays is easy. The expensive leaks are the slow ones: a bead of water forming at a fitting, wicking along tubing, and dripping onto the cabinet floor hours later.
Why does this happen:
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tubing relaxes after pressure is applied
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temperature changes shift fittings slightly
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The system cycles pressure as you use other water fixtures
The fix is usually small (reseat tubing, re-tape threads, snug a connection), but only if you catch it early.
Bold warning: If you see swelling, bubbling, or dark staining in the cabinet base, treat it as an active leak even if you can’t see water right now.
Takeaway: A proper leak recheck is part of installation, not “extra caution.”
Only Works With Proper Initial Flushing and Early Taste and Odor Monitoring
Most under-sink filters need an initial flush. Carbon stages often release harmless carbon fines and trapped air at first. If you skip the flush, you may get gray water, sputtering, or odd taste.
A basic flush routine:
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run filtered water for 5–10 minutes (or as your system requires)
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watch for sputtering to stop
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recheck fittings during and after flushing
After that, pay attention to taste and odor over the next week. If taste gets worse quickly, that can signal you’re using the wrong cartridge for your specific water quality, or you have a flow/pressure mismatch that’s stressing the system. To monitor water quality and detect issues early, using a smart water monitor helps track flow and contamination, ensuring your under-sink system performs optimally.
Takeaway: Flushing and early monitoring are how you confirm the system is working, not just installed.
Poor Mounting Locations That Cause Delayed Filter Changes and Performance Drop
Even a good water filtration system becomes useless if you avoid maintaining it.
Be honest about your habits. If the filter is mounted:
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Behind the trash can you hate moving
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above a tangle of cleaning bottles
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in a corner you can’t see without a flashlight
…then replacement becomes “next weekend,” forever. That’s when people give up or run cartridges far past their life.
If you can mount the unit where you can see it and reach it, you’re much more likely to keep up with changes.
Takeaway: Choose the mounting location like you’re choosing a routine—because you are.
DIY Water Filter Installation vs Hiring a Plumber for Your Setup
DIY works—until it doesn’t. This section helps you recognize when professional help is the smarter choice.
Three Installation Triggers That Usually Require Professional Help
DIY water filter installation is reasonable until one of these triggers shows up:
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Valve corrosion or a stuck shutoff If the shutoff doesn’t fully close, leaks around the stem, or looks deteriorated, you’re no longer installing a filter—you’re dealing with plumbing reliability.
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Faucet hole drilling (especially stone) If you must drill granite/quartz, that step alone often justifies hiring out. One mistake is permanent.
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No clearance for mounting and service If you can’t mount it securely with space for cartridge changes, DIY effort won’t fix the underlying mismatch.
Takeaway: When you hit any of these three, hiring help is usually cheaper than fixing damage later.
Installing an Under-Sink Water Filter in Rentals Without Drilling or Permanent Changes
In apartments, the two hard limits are usually drilling and liability for water damage.
What can work without drilling:
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Using an existing sink deck hole (old soap dispenser/sprayer opening)
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Mounting in a way that doesn’t destroy the cabinet (some people use minimal fasteners; just remember stability still matters)
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Keeping tubing runs neat and protected, so nothing snags when you store items
What to avoid:
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New holes in countertops or sinks without permission
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Anything that requires altering the shutoff valve itself, if you’re not allowed to modify plumbing
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Any install where you can’t do a serious leak-check (apartments punish slow leaks)
Takeaway: Rentals can work, but only when the faucet and mounting plan are truly low-impact and you can monitor leaks.
Only Works When You Can Shut Off Water Cleanly Without Damaging Valves or Supply Lines
The biggest DIY skill here is not “filter knowledge.” It’s knowing when to stop applying force.
If a connection is stuck:
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support the valve with a second wrench when possible, so you don’t twist the valve body
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don’t over-torque plastic fittings
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don’t force threads that don’t feel aligned
If you can’t shut off the cold water fully, do not proceed “carefully.” A partial shutoff plus an open line equals a scramble.
Bold warning: If the shutoff won’t close all the way, don’t disconnect the supply line. That’s a flood risk.
Takeaway: DIY is fine only when shutoff and reconnection are predictable and controlled.
Following a Leak-Avoidance Installation Process That Works in Real Cabinets
A repeatable process prevents most failures. This section outlines a practical, cabinet-tested installation mindset.
DIY Water Filter Installation Checklist Before Disconnecting the Cold Water Supply
Before you touch the cold water supply line, do these pre-checks:
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Measure cabinet depth and the “service height” where the cartridge must move.
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Identify a firm mounting wall and confirm you can reach it with a drill/driver.
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Confirm you have (or can make) a faucet plan: existing hole or drill-ready surface.
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Gather tools: adjustable wrench (often two), PTFE tape (if threaded fittings require it), tubing cutter, drill/driver, towel/pan, flashlight.
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Take a photo of your shutoff valve and supply line connection. If you need the right adapter, that photo saves time.
This prep step is boring, but it prevents the common failure: cabinet torn apart, water off, and you realize you can’t finish.
Takeaway: Measure and confirm your faucet and valve plan before you disconnect anything.
Installation Connection Sequence That Prevents Common Failures
A clean sequence reduces rework:
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Shut off cold water and relieve pressure Open the cold side of the kitchen faucet to relieve pressure.
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Install the adapter at the cold water shutoff Reconnect the faucet supply line, using the proper sealing method for your fitting type.
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Run and cut tubing to length (loose routing first) Don’t lock yourself into short, tight lines. Leave gentle curves.
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Mount the bracket and filter body Use pilot holes. Mount where you can service cartridges later.
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Install the filtered water faucet (or connect to the chosen outlet method) Tighten carefully. Don’t over-crank and crack parts.
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Pressure test slowly, then flush, then recheck Turn the valve on slowly. Inspect every joint with a dry towel, then flush 5–10 minutes, then recheck later.
Takeaway: Install in a sequence that avoids ripping things back out to fix a missed step.
Tubing Installation Rules That Prevent Leaks and How to Fix Bad Seals
Tubing is where most “it’s leaking” stories start.
Rules that prevent leaks:
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Measure twice and avoid tight bends that kink.
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Cut tubing square with a real cutter (not scissors).
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Push tubing fully into the fitting to the required depth.
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Use locking clips if provided.
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Route tubing so opening the cabinet doesn’t snag or tug it.
If a push-fit connection leaks:
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depressurize (shut off water)
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remove tubing (use the release collar correctly)
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cut off the damaged end square
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reinsert fully and re-test
Do not smear sealant on push-fit tubing ends. A clean cut and correct insertion is the fix.
Takeaway: Treat tubing like precision work. Small sloppiness becomes slow drips later.
Cabinet Clearance Diagram and DIY vs Hire Decision Tree
Simple clearance sketch (side view):
| Element | Location | Function | Installation Consideration |
| Countertop | Top of cabinet | Supports sink and faucet | Defines the upper limit of available vertical space |
| Sink bowl | Directly under countertop | Holds water during use | Reduces usable space above the plumbing area |
| Drain | Bottom of sink bowl | Directs wastewater downward | Fixes the starting point of under-sink plumbing |
| P-trap / Disposal | Central lower area under sink | Handles drainage and waste | Major obstruction that blocks filter placement and cartridge movement |
| Cabinet side wall | Left or right interior wall | Primary mounting surface | Preferred location for bracket and filter installation |
| Mounting bracket | Fixed to cabinet side wall | Supports the filter system | Must be solid and reachable to avoid vibration and leaks |
| Filter housing | Mounted on bracket | Contains filter cartridge(s) | Requires clear vertical service height for replacement |
| Cabinet front door | Front of cabinet | User access point | Filter and tubing must not interfere with door operation |
| Cabinet floor | Bottom of cabinet | Base of cabinet interior | Limits downward cartridge removal |
| Required service height | Clear space below filter | Allows cartridge removal | Must remain unobstructed to pull cartridges down or up |
If the filter must be mounted behind the trap/disposal, or you can’t pull the cartridge without hitting the floor/plumbing, it’s a poor fit.
Decision tree (quick go/no-go):
Can you fully shut off cold water at the valve?
- No → Hire help / fix valve first.
- Yes → Next check.
Do you have a safe faucet plan (existing hole or drill-ready surface you’re allowed to modify)?
- No → Avoid this style or change the plan.
- Yes → Next check.
Do you have enough cabinet service space for cartridge changes?
- No → Avoid under-sink or choose a different location/system.
- Yes → Next check.
Is your home water pressure/flow already weak at the kitchen tap?
- Yes → Expect low flow; choose carefully or avoid.
- No → DIY is realistic if you follow leak checks.
Before You Install / Buy checklist (go/no-go)
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You have at least ~15–18" usable cabinet depth and ~12–15" service height where the filter will sit.
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You can mount the bracket to a firm, reachable cabinet wall (not a flimsy back panel).
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You can fully shut off the cold water supply line at the shutoff valve with no dripping at the valve stem.
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Your shutoff valve and supply line connections look standard and can accept an adapter without forcing threads.
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You have a faucet plan: an existing spare hole or a surface you can drill safely (and are allowed to drill).
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You can commit to leak checks after install: immediate, 1–2 hours later, and overnight.
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You can access the filter easily enough that you won’t delay cartridge changes.
FAQs
1. Do I need a plumber to install an under-sink water filter?
Not necessarily. For many homeowners learning how to install an under sink water filter, DIY installation is realistic if the cold water shutoff valve is healthy, the fittings match standard sizes, you have enough cabinet clearance, and no stone drilling is required.
However, hiring a plumber becomes the safer choice when the shutoff valve is corroded or won’t fully close, the valve body moves when you apply wrench force, or the installation requires drilling granite or quartz for a new faucet hole. In these cases, the job shifts from “filter install” to “plumbing risk,” and professional help usually prevents leaks and permanent damage.
2. Can I connect a water filter to my existing faucet?
Some under-sink water filtration systems can connect to an existing kitchen tap, but this setup increases execution risk. Routing filtered water through the main faucet typically adds extra fittings, diverter valves, or internal modifications—each one being another potential leak point.
For most people learning how to install an under sink water filter, the lowest-risk and cleanest option is a dedicated filtered water faucet using an existing spare hole (such as a soap dispenser opening). This approach keeps filtered water separate, simplifies troubleshooting, and reduces long-term maintenance headaches.
3. How long does it take to install an under-sink system?
In a best-case scenario—standard plumbing, an existing faucet hole, open cabinet space, and no surprises—installation typically takes 1–2 hours. This includes mounting the system, connecting tubing, flushing the filter, and doing initial leak checks.
Realistically, many kitchens fall into the 2–4 hour range. Extra time is often needed for careful bracket placement, adapter matching, tubing routing around drain plumbing, and repeated leak inspections after pressure stabilization. Rushing this step is where slow leaks usually begin.
4. What tools are needed for water filter installation?
At a minimum, you’ll need one or two adjustable wrenches, PTFE tape for threaded fittings (when required), a proper tubing cutter to ensure square cuts, towels or a shallow pan for residual water, and a flashlight for cabinet visibility.
If the system requires mounting a bracket or installing a dedicated faucet, add a drill/driver and appropriate bits. Having the right tools before you shut off the water is critical—improvising mid-install often leads to poor seals or damaged fittings.
5. How do I stop leaks after installation?
First, depressurize the system by shutting off the cold water supply. For threaded connections, remove the fitting, re-seat it carefully, and reapply PTFE tape if that fitting type requires sealing. Avoid over-tightening, especially on plastic components.
For push-fit connections, leaks are fixed by precision—not and not force. Remove the tubing, cut off the damaged end square, reinsert fully to the correct depth, and install locking clips if provided. After restoring pressure, recheck all joints after 1–2 hours and again overnight, as slow leaks often appear later rather than immediately.
References